Around Ardnamurchan into the North West

After a very quiet night at Tobermory we decided to head North around Ardnamurchan Point for Loch Moidart, described by our friends, Hugh and Nicola, (see Tarbert and Caladh revisited Blog) as secluded, sheltered and remote. What they didn't say was that it was also tricky to get in with plenty of rocks guarding the entrance and shallow patches further in. However, with the use of Antares charts, also recommended by Hugh, which are detailed, recent, surveys of many remote anchorages in NW Scotland, we found our way in and anchored in a very quiet spot next to the ruins of Castle Tioram. The loch certainly lives up to its description!

Rocks at Loch Moidart entrance.

Anchored off Tioram Castle, Loch Moidart.

After another very peaceful night, with plenty of overnight rain, we decided to head out to Canna, the outermost island of the Small Isles. The pilot book suggested leaving the loch at the start of the flood tide to avoid nasty seas at the entrance so we had a leisurely start. With a good SW breeze we enjoyed an excellent sail to pass East of Eigg and Rum, the larger of the Small Isles. In the lee of Rum we were subject to strong squalls off the hills, forcing us to put a second reef in the main. The last 4 miles to Canna harbour was hard on the wind, which increased to around 30 knots, needing the third reef in the main, which doesn't get used very often.

By late afternoon we entered Canna Harbour and anchored in the middle of the bay. Despite warnings of poor holding in Kelp the anchor dug in well straight away and we settled down to pre dinner g & t's and a glass (or two) of wine over dinner.

Canna Harbonur anchorage.

After another quiet night we headed ashore to get some internet at Canna Cafe and shopping at Canna community store. The store operates on a refreshing, unmanned, honesty basis. You chose your goods, write them down on a sheet, pay and take your change from an unlocked cash box. Wouldn't it be nice if the rest of the UK could operate on that basis?
We would have liked to stay longer in Canna but the weather was very grey and with more wind forecast we needed to head back to the mainland to be sure of connecting Robyn with her train in Mallaig on Wednesday morning. So, after a tea at the cafe and a short walk, making the acquaintance of some highland cattle we returned to the boat to head for Inverie, on Loch Nevis, only a short sail from Mallaig. Robyn had researched Inverie, where the Old Forge inn, the remotest pub in the UK, had free moorings to patrons, showers and an interesting menu.

Highland Cattle

We had another excellent sail, a reach in an 18 knot Southerly breeze, making over 7 knots for most of the time until the wind dropped of the Point of Sleat. We picked up a pub mooring and headed ashore. Showers were cancelled when the pub wanted £4 a head for them. We'll wait until Mallaig tomorrow! Whether the food is up to the listing in 'Welcome Anchorages' we are about to find out, but the view across the loch from our dinner table is certainly spectacular!

Robyn enjoying the sail from Canna.

Posted with Blogsy