The end of phase 1

We are now in Kip marina where we are leaving the boat for a week and catching a train home tomorrow morning at the end of phase 1 of our journey. When we return on Monday 23rd our daughter Robyn is joining us and we head for the Crinan Canal and the Hebrides.

Picking up where the last blog left off. Last Sunday, in anticipation of better weather, we left James Watt Dock, slightly delayed by shipping traffic. When we reported in to Clydeport Control before leaving the dock the captain of the CalMac ferry 'Argyll' came on the radio to say that he was in the commercial part of James Watt Dock with two tugs attached to pull him out stern first and would we mind if he went first. Churlish to refuse when he was so polite but with tugs across the dock mouth we wouldn't have had much option. Anyway, we followed Argyll out into the busy Glasgow channel and hoisted sail (2 reefs in the main and 1 reef rolled in the Genoa) when we cleared the shipping channel for a beat to the West and Loch Long. As the forecast was improving with some sunshine and showers dying out we thought we would have another look at Loch Goil and Carrick Castle in particular. We sailed up to the end of the Coulport naval jetty but as the loch narrowed the wind became too fickle to sail without entering the exclusion zone, something that the police patrol launch was clearly not going to allow us to do! So we finished this part of the trip under engine. Clearly Loch Goil had not heard the weather forecast as it was still raining when we approached Carrick Castle so we turned tail and ran back down to an anchorage off Ardentinny, on the West Bank of Loch Long, where the sun was still shining.

As Gareloch was the only loch we had not visited East of Kintyre we decided to pay it a visit. The Welcome Anchorages brochure said the Royal Northern and Clyde Yacht Club, at Rhu narrows, had visitors berths, free if you used the club facilities, and did bar lunches. That set the plan for Monday, with a light wind from the North we set the spinnaker to run down the centre of Loch Long. The navy unfortunately spoilt our plans, there were more than the usual number of patrol boats around, we were buzzed by a black navy RIB and a chunky marine very politely asked us to sail across to the West as a submarine wanted to play in the bit of water we were using. Very polite these Scottish chappies but in any case you don't say no to a big burly marine, especially when there are lots of patrol boats about, some with guns on their foredecks! So, our trip was extended somewhat by taking the circular route via the entrance to Holy Loch and Gourock. At least nobody stopped us taking photos of the submarine.

I The sub that interrupted our passage.

The police keeping us clear of the sub.

We were late getting to the RNCYC moorings and found that they no longer do lunches on Mondays anyway! Kyle, the duty boatman, showed us to our mooring and gave us a lift ashore for showers and a tour of the club, which is based in a magnificent listed building with many old photographs of racing on the Clyde and half models decorating the walls. Unfortunately the toilet and shower facilities didn't match the rest of the club, definitely in need of a refurb, and the hot water didn't work until the boiler was fiddled with! The moorings are no longer free but the inclusion of a boatman service was a luxury compared to what would have been a long, wet, trip in the dinghy. Kyle and Sandy, the duty boatmen, were more than helpful and we took the opportunity to fill up our water jerrycans and took a walk towards Helensburgh on Tuesday morning.

RNCYC interior

Topping up the water at RNCYC

 

We could have stopped for lunch as caterers were in for a Probus meeting but, as the weather was good, with light winds from the North West we took the opportunity to sail down to Millport, on Great Cumbrae. This turned out to be one of the nicest sails of our trip so far. It started very gently, racing down the Clyde against a pretty Sadler 26, whose crew were trying very hard while trying to appear not to be trying. Refusing to look directly at us was the giveaway! Once the wind built sufficiently for us to get up to hull speed we left them for a beat down the Clyde in a breeze which built to 18 knots, and fortunately veered from SouthWest, which would have been no good for Millport, to West as we approached the North end of Cumbrae. The first sail of the trip in shorts!

Legs exposed!

Millport Bay turned out to be delightful, seals basking in the sunshine on the rocks in the harbour and the houses along the seafront making a colourful backdrop in the evening sunshine.

Our Wednesday plans were to stay in Millport (free moorings helps!) and hire bikes to explore the island. There are a number of bike shops along the seafront but we were directed up the hill, away from the sea to a sign above what appeared to be a side entry in a row of terraced houses. Bremners cycle hire turned out to be a treasure, a real Aladdins cave of cycles and cycling bits, not least was the helpful chat from Gordon and Suzanne, the proprietors. Gordon was a mine of useful knowledge about the island and sorted us out with a couple of nice bikes.

We cycled around the island shores, about 11 miles in all, returning to Millport for lunch in the Garrison House. Millport developed as a base for revenue cutters trying to prevent the enormous trade in smuggled goods around these shores and the Garrison House was, as its name suggests, the base for the crews of the revenue cutters before becoming a private house, the home of the actor, Duncan Macrae and his wife Peggy, both of whom were involved with dealing with wartime evacuee children from Glasgow. The house has now been restored and contains a museum of Cumbrae life and an excellent cafe.

The Cathedral of the Isles.

 

A break on the way up to the Glaid Stone.

At the high point of Cumbrae.

After lunch we visited the Cathedral of the Isles, the smallest cathedral in the British Isles and took the inland route to the Glaid Stone, the highest point on Cumbrae, at 127 metres not exactly high but with fantastic views. We took the long steady climb up and the steeper, windy hill down, definitely the best way to do it. All in all a fantastic day, warm sunshine all day and calm on the mooring overnight, calm enough for breakfast in the cockpit on Thursday morning. Debbie paid an early visit in the dinghy to the seal colony, 20+ seals on the Eileans, the islands in Milport Bay.

Breakfast in the cockpit.

Who is watching who?

We completed phase 1 with a sail up the West side of Cumbrae with the spinnaker up for 2 hours until the wind died and we reverted to the engine and tidied up the sails for the last hour before entering Kip marina.

So we are now about ready for the trip home, the dinghy floor has gone to Ocean Safety to have the valve repaired, the spray hood has gone to Saturn Sails to have the rotten stitching replaced and the new clamp for the wind generator has been delivered and fitted so we are good to go again. We have made a few new friends while in Kip and a few old ones, Oppie parents, Tim and Ruth Taylor are up here with what seems to be a huge fleet of Cornish Shrimpers, cruising in company. We also met Sam Lewellyn again, who has his Corribee moored next to us.

Sam Llewellyn, also in tidying up mode.

 

We have just enjoyed an excellent meal at Inverkip Hotel and just need to pack the rucksacks for tomorrow's long train journey back to Torquay.

 

 

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